High-end jewelry and fancy accessories designer Delphine Charlotte Parmentier collaborates with major couture houses like Balenciaga, Daniel Swarovski, Valentino, Lanvin, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix and Thierry Mugler. Head of a Paris-based studio that employs 45 people, she also runs her own brand. Between two runway shows, she took a moment to describe to Relaxnews how a collection comes about.Relaxnews: How do you prepare for a runway show?
Delphine Charlotte Parmentier: One month before the deadline, we are still in the inspiration phase ... the time devoted to the creation phase itself is really short. The fashion world is extremely fast-moving. The last 15 days are a rush, and after the fitting sessions -- also on a tight schedule -- comes the validation process. The deadline is set in stone. All the orders must be delivered on schedule, which requires the entire team to give 100 percent.
RN: How long does it take to create one piece of jewelry? How many people does it require?
DCP: Our creations are totally handmade. We have to pay the utmost attention to detail, that's an inherent element in haute couture. The fabrication of a single piece can take between seven and 72 hours, and involve one person or up to eight people.
RN: What kind of stress are you under for such an event?
DCP: Maximum stress. You have to beat the clock, and time flies, literally. In our studio, we have a stopwatch in constant countdown mode.
RN: Is the satisfaction felt on seeing the final runway show worth all the stress?
DCP: Absolutely. Seeing the work of everyone come together successfully is a source of joy. I am very lucky -- it is a very stressful job but also a fulfilling one. I feel great pride.
RN: Have you seen a lot of changes in the past 20 years in this métier?
DCP: We had much greater creative freedom 20 years ago; we were under much less pressure, in my opinion. Today, deadlines are always getting tighter and challenges bigger. Each collection is different.
RN: Is the jewelry seen on the runway for sale or is it only a way to showcase your work?
DCP: The products are indeed sold after the shows during special presentations in exhibitions.
RN: Do you receive last-minute requests? If so, how do you manage them?
DCP: We often have last-minute crises. To overcome them on time is my responsibility. I work through the night to find a solution. Sometimes, accessories are delivered two hours before the show and the delivery men are waiting in the studio until the last second.
RN: Is the purpose of jewelry to accentuate an outfit or to catch the eye?
DCP: It depends on the brands and how the scene is being set. We sometimes have extravagant requests; for example, some seasons ago, Givenchy asked us to create huge hair accessories in ceramic. But some of our clients prefer that the accessories blend with the silhouette.
RN: What are some of the most extravagant requests you've had?
DCP: Jewelry using natural gemstones in colors that do not exist. We also had to integrate into our accessories crystal-faceted stones that are only available in Thailand; the stones then had to be polished in Poitiers before being vaporized with a silver finish in Germany and then "vintaged" -- quite a difficult process. I often have to accessorize a whole show, so everything needs to be coherent, it is a real challenge.
R: Have you ever had a last-minute problem to solve?
DCP: We once had to create a 12:5-meter beaded belt with pearls and beads, which took four hours. Because of the stress and the fatigue, we missed one and had to completely start over, right before the deadline.
R: But on D-day, everything is still ready?
DCP: Yes, on D-day, everything is ready even if it seemed impossible.